Fate

October 18
40 miles
In the morning I realize a spoke has broken, and Jacob, who happens to be a bike mechanic, tells me I have to go to a shop to replace it and true the wheel (align properly). So I head off slowly as to not overstress the bike. In one cove there is the loudest barking imaginable as I see about a hundred sea lions in the water. From the other side I see an astounding sight. The beach is simply littered with sea lions. The long stretch of sandy beach is simply black and I really wish I had a telephoto lens cause my camera can't even distinguish them as anything but black.
About 6 miles out I realize I left my pump at the campsite. You know, I didn't like that pump anyway. And then 3 miles later another spoke pops. Walking time! While walking through Florence I find the bike shop is closed Sunday and the next one is 50 miles away. Balls. Then comes my guardian angel. 
Here's the biggest show of fate I've ever seen. I'm walking on the right side of the road and decide to cross the road to get to a subway. 2 seconds from the subway, an elderly man named Herbert English (note to self, best name ever) rides his bike out of his church. And onto the road next to me. He was heading the 500 feet to go to the grocery store. It turns out not only has herb toured 60,000 miles, but was a bike mechanic for years, TAUGHt people how to become bike mechanics, and was super nice and generous. He offers to see if he can fix my spokes and I think sure why the hell not.
At his place he doesn't have the right size spokes, so he MAKES me spokes by adjusting longer spokes with pliers. What!?! Then he trues the wheel (all with no equipment), makes me a couple extra spokes (you know, just in case), teaches me a bit about truing, and then offers me lunch. I won't hear of that, so I take him out to subway. What an encounter. You rule herb
Eventually I get to Umpqua lighthouse state park, a spot j&p have previously nicknamed oompa loompa state park. It is thus absolutely perfect that the street sign hanging from the host's rv says "oompa lane." I eat 4 top ramen and pass out